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4. [DESIGN] HiHat controller for Yamaha(tm) trigger modules (by vanHouten)

[DESIGN] HiHat controller for Yamaha(tm) trigger modules (by vanHouten)

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• Posted April 16, 2007 at 11:26 #1890278
  PFozz

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  HiHat controller for Yamaha(tm) trigger modules
  by vanHouten

  A Yamaha(tm)-compatible hihat pedal is a little tricky to build but if you already have assembled a pedal on your own and just need the circuitry, it should be not much of a problem. the monetary efforts you have to face for this “project” are almost zero as long as you get your parts from defect electronic devices like hifi components etc…
  (some experience with soldering and electronic components are necessary or at least useful!)

  Here are the parts needed for the circuitry :

  resistors :
  2x: 150k 5%
  1x: 50k
  1x: 10k
  1x: 1k
  1x: 0.22k

  capacitor :
  1x: F 104Z (ceramic disc capacitor)

  diode :
  1x: BAT 48

  other :
  1x: old computer keyboard
  1x: perfboard 3×7 cm (platine to set up own circuits)
  1x: stereo jack (6,3mm)
  1x: some wire for connections
  1x: rubber cushion or foam-plate (e.g. thick mouse pad)
  1x: double sided tape

  (soldering iron, multimeter and evtl. hot glue)

  Now the assembling :

  1)
  build a pedal… there are some models shown here.

  2)
  solder the circuit shown on the picture onto the perfboard, except for the 4 switches. now the sophisticated part begins… take apart the old keyboard and remove the contact-foil carefully. now cut out a piece that includes four contacts in a row. this will be the switch array from the schematic. i chose to take the upper four contacts from the num-pad because they were easily accessible.

  http://edrum.for.free.fr/static/pictures/VHYHHCHiHatSchematic.jpg
  GET THIS PICTURE
  (Right-click / Save target as…)
  3)
  the tricky thing is to connect the foil to the circuitry because one can’t simply solder cables to the printed wiring due to it’s melting point. i managed to connect the cables with hot glue (and it still lasts). use the multimeter to verify that all switching points close correctly.

  4)
  in the schematic the row-order of the successively closing switches is shown. consider this when you attach the foil under the pedal and fix it with the double sided tape.
  then cut out four bars from the rubber foam and attach them over the four contact points of the foil (double sided tape again). another thing to think about is the position of the foil under the pedal, which means at which angle of the pedal all four switching points are closed.

  http://edrum.for.free.fr/static/pictures/VHYHHCskizzeHiHat.jpg
  GET THIS PICTURE
  (Right-click / Save target as…)
  5)
  solder the stereo jack to the circuitry according to the schematic and you are done.

  6)
  “share and enjoy!”

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  Thanx again, vanHouten, for this other contribution!
  Best.

  www.eareckon.com
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