There’s lots of custom ways to figure this out depending on the user and experience.

If you want to give up listening through your TD27 and buy an audio interface and then use a DAW, that is typically an end game solution unless your computer is so old/slow it simply can’t handle whatever you do audio wise.

You never mentioned adjusting buffer settings, but since you said you tried all, you obviously put most of your time there.

Best solution for you would be to just buy an audio interface.

I have 2 separate setups with EZD from my laptop:  One that uses my MOTU M2 2×2 USB audio interface and my ‘practice/backup’ rig that uses an even *cheaper* Behringer UMC202HD USB Audio Interface.  Either one works fine for reducing latency.    (The MOTU unit has MIDI also, but I don’t use it)

The MOTU is great (I like the metering and MIDI) but either of the above should work fine for you.   The behringer can be had for like $USD 69 or less.

Also note: even when you’re routing EZD thru your audio interface you can still ALSO route your TD27 audio into one of the *analog* inputs on either of the above-mentioned interfaces.  I do precisely that so that I have a backup when I’m gigging with EZD.  My default is to use EZD3 live, with my module volume at zero. But if anything goes amiss w/my PC host,  I just turn up the audio signal from my module and I’m still good to go.

Good luck!

I said use a DAW, so you could bring individual audio files (songs) to jam with. Not stream in media from a web browser or apple music for example.

The simplest setup if you just want to jam and not record is you get an audio interface with “Loopback”. The least expensive Scarlett 2i2 for example (3rd generation or higher). Loopback will enable you to pipe in audio from other applications while EZDrummer is occupying your audio driver. These interfaces come with a virtual mixer so you can mix EZD with your other audio apps to a degree. I use RME which is expensive, but has no limitations.

A vid for generic audio/toontrack setup options.

Use the topology shootie recommended (PC at the center of all USB connections).

Be sure to install any drivers/config tools recommended by the audio interface manufacturer.  That’ll allow you to modify the interface’s buffer size to trade off latency for audio quality. (Rule of thumb is use smallest buffer size and increase incrementally if pops or other noise shows up.)

It does seem counterintuitive that your can pay a lot for a high end laptop or desktop rig and it’ll still have lame audio processing hardware inside.  Another advantage of going to an external audio interface is that it gets the analog portion of your signals OUTSIDE of the RF hellscape that is the interior of a computer case… 😉

Good luck!

What are your computer specs?